UGANDA
Uganda was once described by Winston Churchil as the ‘Pearl of Africa’ - thanks to its terrific biodiversity, colour, life and beauty. For decades, 19th century explorers were obsessed with this part of the world, frantically searching for the source of the Nile. Livingstone, Stanley and Speke became celebrities for their continued and relentless pursuit of it.
Although it is land-locked, one fifth of the country is made up of water, with roughly 165 lakes and a major section of its border flanking the great Lake Victoria. A proportion of these lakes, as well as the many mountains and forests, make up the headwaters of the Nile River before it flows up to north Africa. Flying over Lake Albert, in the top left corner, one can enjoy the sight of thousands of fishing boats, in a constant hive of productivity.
To this day, one feels one is on a geographic expedition of old while scrabbling through the dense undergrowth of the Ruwenzoris or the Virunga Mountain Range searching for gorillas. Here too live the Batwa, one of the oldest indigenous tribes in Africa. The entire landscape is incredibly lush, with dense farmland snugly packed between imposing mountains and volcanoes. Names such as ‘The Impenetrable Forest’ and ‘Mountains of the Moon’ cannot but inspire a genuine sense of discovery and delight.
KIDEPO NATIONAL PARK
Bordering Kenya and South Sudan, Kidepo is right in the north east of the country. Dominated by huge granite inselbergs on either side of the park, it also features dramatic Borassus palm forests, sandy luggas and vast sausage trees (Kigelias). It is brimming with buffalos - perhaps the highest density of them of anywhere in Africa - often with herds of a thousand. One can also find elephants and Rothschild giraffes, lesser kudu or white eared kob who’ve strayed in from South Sudan. If you’re lucky you may find Clapperton’s Francolin or the rosy ringed parakeet. Here too live the Karamojong, a fierce pastoralist tribe who allegedly migrated to this area in 1600 AD, in search of permanent pasture. In contrast, we also visit the Ik, a remote mountain tribe who live around the edges of the park, living peacefully and growing potatoes in their gardens.
Just a stone’s throw from northern Kenya, Kidepo can easily be built into a Kenyan itinerary. Opoka Lodge makes a superb base from which to enjoy the park.
MURCHISON FALLS
At a spot between Lake Kyoga and Lake Albert, the mighty river Nile is squeezed between a gap just seven metres wide, and then plummets 45 metres down. Murchison Falls is not only a unique brunch spot, it’s also considered the most powerful waterfall in the world. Aside from this colossal water feature, the wildlife is also excellent, and usually viewed from a boat, or by car. You can compete with monster crocodiles to catch Nile perch, or explore a Borassus palm forest. For the brave at heart, a stint in a rubber raft along the white water that leads to the falls can make for some pretty epic memories, and you’ll see country flashing by that isn’t accessible any other way.